explore
The places I wander
Eighteen of Italy's twenty regions and counting, the Rome guide I keep for friends, and the places farther afield that changed how I see the world.
Shaded regions are ones I've explored. Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Basilicata are next on my list. Stories and recommendations for each region are on their way.
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A personal guide
Rome
I fell for Rome as a student, and I've gone back every year since. This is the guide I send friends: the places I love, neighborhood by neighborhood, and when to go so you have them to yourself.
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